What is a Tension Setting?

Unique Tension Set Rings Enhance Diamond's Brilliance or Gem's Color

Mar 28, 2009

A tension setting is a unique and memorable alternative to a conventional setting that showcases a diamond or gemstone's color, clarity and brilliance to its best.

Tension set diamonds, sometimes known as "floating diamonds" or "suspended diamonds," have become very popular in engagement rings for their modern, elegant look which displays the diamond to its best effect. Unlike settings in which a gemstone is held by prongs or within a channel, a tension setting relies on spring-like force that holds a diamond or other gemstone suspended between the metal arms of the ring.

Developed by Friedrich Becker in the 1960s, tension set rings allow a solitaire gemstone or the centre stone of a ring to be suspended dramatically within the structure and design of the jewelry. A tension setting means that the gemstone has contact with the setting at only two points, allowing more light to penetrate the stone and creating greater brilliance and more fire or flashes of light from a diamond.

How Are Tension Settings Made?

Belying the precarious appearance of such a setting, the gemstone is not held there by magic but by spring compression and tiny grooves made in the metal of the ring. Tension rings are made from alloys of gold or platinum that are heat treated to create intense pressure on the stone, holding it in place.

Each tension setting must be specifically designed around the gemstone and to fit the wearer's finger. As a result, tension settings cannot be resized but have to be completely melted down and remade if your finger size changes.

Is a Tension Setting as Secure as a Normal Gemstone Setting?

Tension settings are said to be even more secure than conventional settings, which rely on prongs only a fraction of an inch thick to retain the precious gemstone. Tension settings are touted to be safe for hundreds of years before the setting begins to lose spring tension. Despite this, there are some reports of gemstones being lost from tension settings.

Tension Set Engagement Rings

Tension engagement rings are a popular choice for the startling elegance of the design and the way it enhances any diamond or other gemstone. The minimalist form allows the most light possible to penetrate the stone, enhancing its sparkle and fire.

In diamonds, a tension setting can enhance the color by as much as two grades, creating a brilliant and memorable engagement ring. What's more, each ring is made specially to fit the diamond you select and your ring finger, so every tension ring is one-of-a-kind.

Which Gemstones Can Be Tension Set?

Because the force exerted by a tension setting is between 65 and 95 pounds per square millimeter, only the hardest gemstones can withstand the pressure of such a setting. Tension set stones must be at least 8 on the hardness scale. The best gemstones for a tension set ring are high-quality diamonds, rubies, sapphire, moissanite and cubic zirconia.

With no setting to hide any flaws or inclusions in the stone, only the best quality gemstones with perfect clarity are suitable for setting in a tension ring.

Sources

The copyright of the article What is a Tension Setting? in Rings (Jewelry) is owned by Victoria Anisman-Reiner. Permission to republish What is a Tension Setting? in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.